Cross of Malta, St. Paul's Church.

Malta

by Eve Andersson

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How rapidly this tiny archipelagic nation captured my heart! Although Malta is part of Europe, it sits so far south in the Mediterranean that even parts of Africa extend to its north. The land is all desert, without even a single river. Malta has a small population (a bit more than 400,000) and also a small land area (slightly over 300 square kilometers), making it is one of the most densely populated countries in Europe. From each town, you can see the next town (if you stand at a high enough point, that is).

Maltese people are outgoing and friendly to strangers. Everyone speaks English — Malta was a British colony until 1964 — and all the street signs are in English. The other official language of Malta is Maltese, a fascinating Semitic language that contains cool letters like Ħ and ż.

Mdina

"The Silent City", as Mdina is known, is surrounded by an ancient wall and moat (no water today), separating it from its neighboring city, Rabat. Settled over 4000 years ago — and resettled and rebuilt many times since then — this small city has narrow streets, lovely buildings, and magnificent views over neighboring towns such as Mosta, which has the third-largest church dome in Europe, towering over the rest of the city. Mdina is famous for being visited by St. Paul, who shipwrecked on the island in AD 60.

Main gate. Triq is-Salvatur (Our Saviour Street). Triq Villegaignon (Villegaignon Street). Greek Gate. Triq Sant Agata (St. Agatha Street), off of Pjazza Tas-Sur (Bastion Square). Triq Santa Sofija (St. Sophie Street). Main gate, from inside Mdina, at night. Casa Castelletti Gallery, in a building with purple shutters. Triq Villegaignon (Villegaignon Street). Violet flowers. Entrance to Vilhena Palace, which contains the Museum of Natural History. Moat around the city walls, with tennis courts in it. Mdina, the old capital of Malta.

St. Paul's Cathedral

This cathedral in the center of Mdina was built from 1697-1702 on the site where governor Publius took in St. Paul after his shipwreck.

Exterior, St. Paul's Cathedral. St. Paul's Cathedral St. Paul's Cathedral. Ceiling, St. Paul's Cathedral.



Rabat

Just outside of Mdina, this more workaday town has plenty of charm of its own. Rabat holds the amazing St. Agatha's catacombs (of which, photographs are sadly not allowed). In Malta, many of the houses are named, not just numbered. The most amusing was one in Rabat named "Wisconsin".

A 1983 sculpture of a couple by Anton Agius, Maltese sculptor. Building with two oratories on the corner, Triq Ġorġ Borg Olivier (George Borg Olivier Street). Red and green oratory, Triq hal-Bajjada. Maltese busses, Pjazza tas-Saqqajja (Saqqajja Square). Triq Ġorġ Borg Olivier (George Borg Olivier Street). Triq ir-Repubblika. Casino Notabile (built 1887). Gate, Triq Ġorġ Borg Olivier (George Borg Olivier Street). Railway bridge near the historic Notabile train station, outside of Rabat. View from Point de Vue Guest House.
House with a "Wisconsin" nameplate. House with a "My Way" nameplate. "Swan Lake" nameplate on a house.
St. Paul's Church, Grotto, and Catacombs

St. Paul was said to have lived in the the grotto underneath St. Paul's Church in Rabat. The nearby catacombs were Phonecians and later used by Christians.

St. Paul's Church. St. Paul's Church. St. Paul's Church. St. Paul's Grotto.
St. Paul's Catacombs. St. Paul's Catacombs. St. Paul's Catacombs.



Marsaxlokk

Marsaxlokk is a pretty, colorful, relaxing, fishing village.

Marsaxlokk Bay. Man varnishing his boat next to Marsaxlokk Bay. Pjazza L-Madonna Ta'Pompei.

Ħaġar Qim and Mnajdra

This UNESCO World Heritage Site consists of two adjacent limestone temples on the south coast of Malta — two of the oldest religious sites on Earth. The huge protective coverings are impressive engineering works, slowing the erosion of these important pieces of Malta's history; unfortunately they kind of ruin the vibe.
Ħaġar Qim

This temple complex was built during the Ġgantija era (3600-3200 BC) and contains some nice altars. The most impressive artifacts found here, statues known as the "fat ladies", have been moved to a museum in Valletta for safekeeping.

Ħaġar Qim, a 14th century BC megalithic temple complex. Altar and slab at Ħaġar Qim, a 14th century BC megalithic temple complex. Apse of Ħaġar Qim, a 14th century BC megalithic temple complex. Ħaġar Qim, a 14th century BC megalithic temple complex. West temple at Ħaġar Qim, a 14th century BC megalithic temple complex.

Mnajdra

Mnajdra, built later than Ħaġar Qim (in the Tarxien era, 3150-2500 BC) and closer to the sea, is more geometrically interesting than its neighbor temple.

Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex. Snail at Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex. Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex. Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex. Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex. Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex. East temple at Mnajdra, a megalithic temple complex.


Clapham Junction Cart Ruts and Ghar il-Kbir

There is no agreement on what caused the "cart ruts" -- evenly spaced grooves in the ground -- but they may have been due to cart wheels eroding the soft Maltese stone over time, starting sometime between 1500 and 750 BC. Similar ruts are founds all over the Maltese archipelago. "Clapham Junction" is so nicknamed because the vast quantity of cart ruts here gives the impression of a train station.

In the same vicinity is Għar il-Kbir, a large cave that was inhabited by people until as recently as 1835, when the British government forcibly relocated them. A 1647 reference to the cave (in Descrittione di Malta Isola nel Mare Siciliano by Gian Francesco Abela) describes 24 families, or about 117 people, and their animals living within.

Clapham Junction cart ruts. Clapham Junction cart ruts. Grave, at the site of the Clapham Junction cart ruts.
Għar il-Kbir (the Great Cave), a series of cave houses. Għar il-Kbir (the Great Cave), a series of cave houses.

Blue Grotto, Neighboring Caves, and Environs

From the town of Wied iż-Żurrieq, a lovely boat ride can take you to a series of caves along the coast, the most famous of which is called the Blue Grotto, for the intense blueness of the water.
Blue Grotto
Blue Grotto. Looking out from within the Blue Grotto. Blue Grotto. Stalactites, Blue Grotto.

Cat's Cave
Window, Cat's Cave. Cat's Cave.

Filfla Cave
Filfla Cave (so named because a rock within it resembles the islet of Filfla). Filfla Cave. Rocks, Filfla Cave.

Temple Cave
"The Pyramid", a formation within the Temple Cave. Temple Cave. Blue Window, Temple Cave

Environs
Military fort, built 700 years ago to guard against the Turkish. Boats in the bay. Elephant's Foot (rock formation). Stone military pillbox.

Valletta

The capital city of Malta — and a UNESCO World Heritage Site — Valletta is a gorgeous city situated on the Grand Harbour, with narrow, hilly streets (some passable only on foot because they have steps built into them).

Battery Street. Decrepit building, Old Hospital Street. Steps on Battery Street, at night. Caf?imitri, corner of Triq San Pawl (St. Paul's Street) and Triq Melita (Melita Street). Triq il-Merkanti (Merchant's Street). View of Valletta waterfront from Lower Barakka Gardens (Il-Barrakka t'Isfel).

Barrakka Gardens

Both the Lower and Upper Barrakka Gardens are beautiful and offer wonderful views over the Grand Harbour.

Statue entitled ENEA by Ugo Attardi, Lower Barakka Gardens (Il-Barrakka t'Isfel). Lower Barakka Gardens (Il-Barrakka t'Isfel). Lower Barakka Gardens (Il-Barrakka t'Isfel). Upper Barrakka Gardens (Il-Barrakka ta' Fuq), with a view over the Grand Harbour. Upper Barrakka Gardens (Il-Barrakka ta' Fuq).

St. John's Co-cathedral

The most interesting feature of the enormous St. John's Co-cathedral, consecrated in 1578, is the floor: a series of marble tombstones, often with pictures of skeletons or skulls, under which 400 Knights of Malta are buried.

St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Nave, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Chapel of the Langue of Italy, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Maltese Cross, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Maltese Cross, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Floor decoration containing a skeleton, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Floor decoration containing a skull and crossbones, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann). Floor decoration containing a skull, St. Johns Co-Cathedral (Kon-Katidral ta' San Ġwann).

Palace of the Grand Master

This palace, built 1573-8, is the seat of the Parliament and the President's office. It contains a particularly large and impressive armory.

Gobelin Tapestries, State Rooms, Palace of the Grand Master. Plaque from Buckingham Palace, awarding the George Cross to honor the people of Malta, April 15, 1942. Palace of the Grand Master. Supreme Council Hall, Palace of the Grand Master. Armor, State Rooms, Palace of the Grand Master. Armor, State Rooms, Palace of the Grand Master. Maltese Cross, Palace of the Grand Master.
Comb Morion, a type of military helmet, Palace of the Grand Master. Savoyard style close helmet, c 1600-30, Palace of the Grand Master. Peaked Morions, a type of military helmet, Palace of the Grand Master.


Senglea, Vittoriosa, and Kalkara

These three villages sit across the Grand Harbour from Valletta. Vittoriosa contains a large 9th century fort (center photo).

L-Isla (Senglea), on the Grand Harbour, viewed from the British Hotel in Valletta. Fort St. Angelo, viewed from the British Hotel, Valletta. Kalkara, viewed from the British Hotel, Valletta.

Other Photos of Malta

Vending machine selling Kinnie, a citrusy Maltese soft drink. Church. Door. Verdala Palace. Men riding in a horse-drawn cart. Rotunda of Santa Marija Assunta (a.k.a., Mosta Dome), viewed from Mdina. Siġġiewi, a village in the southwest of Malta. Northward view from Ħaġar Qim. Filfla, the southernmost islet in the Maltese archipelago.

Maltese Wine

I very much enjoy Maltese wine. The arid and perpetually sunny climate results in full-bodied, fruit-forward wines that are unpretentious and delicious. Malta produces barely enough grapes to sustain its own demand, let alone foreign demand for its wine, therefore it imports some grapes from Italy; thus if you want the true Maltese wine experience, look for wines marked "D.O.K. Malta", "D.O.K. Goza", or "Maltese Islands I.G.T.". My favorite is Marsovin's Cheval Franc, made primarily from Cabernet Franc grapes grown on hills overlooking St. Paul's Bay.

La Torre, merlot, Marsovin, 2008, Malta. Cheval Franc, Marsovin, 2008, Malta. Maltese red wines.


14 Maltese Red Wines and Eve's Opinion of Them
Bad
 
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Don't
Bother
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    B3
      
      
      
      
      
      
      
      
      
N2    
      
Good
 
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  B1    
    B2  
        
    C  
  D1    
      D2
      M1
    M2  
        
      M4
      M5
  N1    
        
    K  
Superb
 
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M3  
    
    
    
    
    
B1Bacchus, Dionysus Merlot Suprême, 2004.
Unfiltered. Beautiful aroma and taste of violets, but hollow middle palate.
B2Bacchus, Dionysis Syrah/Cabernet, 2004.
Plummy, medium-full bodied. Hint of tannins, completely gone after two hours of decanting.
B3Bacchus, La Citadelle Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004.
Cherries and leather. Bitter, sour finish.
CCamilleri, Laurenti Merlot/Cab, 2007.
Very pleasant, well-balanced, drinkable, but not terribly interesting. A little oak.
D1Delicata, Grand Vin de Hauteville Shiraz/Cabernet, 2007.
Tastes like apple seeds. After allowing it to decant for two hours, a little bit of the syrah's typical fruitiness starts to show.
D2Delicata, Medina Cab/Cab Franc, 2008.
Medium-bodied. Very smooth and drinkable. Everyday (rather than special occasion) wine. Gentler, "easier" than pure cab franc. Beautiful red fruit on nose.
M1Marsovin, La Torre, Merlot, 2008.
Full bodied, powerful hot-weather-grown taste. A little tart, but nice. Velvety.
M2Marsovin, La Vallette Vin Rouge, 2007.
Good, but flavors a bit "subtle". Well-balanced and enjoyable, but not extremely interesting.
M3Marsovin, Cheval Franc, 2008.
Mostly cabernet franc, some syrah. Dark, opaque. Full-flavored. A touch bitter, but in a good, interesting way. Herbaceous. Strong finish. Excellent wine.
M4Marsovin, Antonin, 2007.
Merlot/cab/cab franc. From Marsaxlokk. Plummy nose and flavor. Smooth, balanced, very drinkable. Mild tannins. Medium body. Nice finish.
M5Marsovin, Marnisi Rizerva, 2007.
55% cab, 30% merlot, also cab franc ans petite verdot. Gorgeous nose, probably due to cab franc. Smooth. Touch of strawberry. More interesting than Antonin but leas polished. Mildly dislike some flavor in finish.
N1Meridiana, Nexus Merlot, 2006.
Medium bodied. Some nice berry flavors initially, but flavor dissipates too quickly.
N2Meridiana, Celsius Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, 2006.
Unfiltered. Displays no cab typicity. Takes like acidic soil. Did I get a bad bottle?
KMonte Kristo, Magnus, 2004.
Packaging says mainly indigenous grapes (+10% shiraz, 5% cab), but doesn't specify varietal(s) of these indigenous grapes. Was expecting unusual flavors, but disappointed. Still; quite pleasant. Balanced, medium bodied. Red and black fruits, slight pepper. Expensive by Maltese standards. Beautiful bottle with pewter label.




More photos: View all photos in the directory /photos/malta/.
Eve Andersson (eve@eveandersson.com)
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