Western (Wailing) Wall, Old City of Jerusalem.

Israel

by Eve Andersson

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Jerusalem

What a fascinating place this is. Within the walls of the Old City of Jerusalem lie four quarters: the Armenian, Jewish, Christian, and Muslim quarters. However, the quarters are not as clearly delineated as they might sound; some of the holiest places for one religion are built on right next to or, in some cases, on top of another religion's holiest places. The maze of streets in the Old City is vibrant and beautiful and interesting, though the ubiquity of the markets was a bit much. In addition to visiting the spectacular religious sites, I really enjoyed walking on the rooftops (one staircase is at St Mark's Road and Khabad Street [also spelled Habad]).

View of two domes - one a mosque, the other a church - from the Austrian Hospice of the Holy Family, Old City of Jerusalem. Church of the Holy Sepulchre and mosque with green neon lights, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Boy beneath arches, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Ha Tuppim Road, Jewish Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Door, Hurva Square, Jewish Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Woman and arch, Via Dolorosa, Muslim Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Guard, Al-Wad Street, Muslim Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Roof, Tomb of David, Mt. Zion. View from the rooftops, Old City of Jerusalem. Damascus Gate, Old City of Jerusalem. The Cardo, the main street (reconstructed) of 6th century Byzantine Jerusalem. Jewish Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Wall, Old City of Jerusalem. Jewish Quarter Street, Jewish Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Courtyard with clotheslines. Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Balcony with an electric guitar, seen from the roof of the Tomb of David, Mt. Zion. Church of All Nations and Church of St. Mary Magdalene, Mount of Olives. Viewed from the Yeusefiya cemetery, Jerusalem. Damascus Gate and walls around the Old City of Jerusalem. Night view of a dome and walls of the Old City of Jerusalem. Bullet holes, Zion Gate, wall of the Old City of Jerusalem. Wall dividing Israel and the West Bank, viewed from the roof of the Tomb of David, Mt. Zion. Jerusalem Chords Bridge, a tram and pedestrian bridge.

Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount)

Dome of the Rock, situated at Haram esh-Sharif, is one of the most beautiful structures in Jerusalem. Although only Muslims are permitted inside the dome itself, the grounds are open to modestly-dressed visitors. In addition to being one of Islam's holiest sites, this is considered the most holy site in Judaism; because of this, some Jewish people will not visit Temple Mount.

Dome of the Rock, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Wall, Dome of the Rock, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Ladder, Dome of the Rock, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Tower, with faintly visible moon, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Door, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Area for washing feet, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Dome of the Rock behind arches (qanatir), Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Dome of the Chain, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Dome of the Chain, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount). Ceiling, Dome of the Chain, Haram esh-Sharif (Temple Mount).

Western (Wailing) Wall and the Western Wall Tunnel

Many people place small papers containing wishes for the future into the cracks in the wall at this very holy Jewish site. The visible part of the wall is actually just a small fraction of the entire wall; tunnels underneath reveal more of the wall — half a kilometer in length — and some Jews pray at at an underground spot that is considered the closest point on the wall to the Holy of Holies over which the Dome of the Rock was built.

Orthodox Jewish man, on landing above Western (Wailing) Wall, Old City of Jerusalem. Men praying, Western (Wailing) Wall, Old City of Jerusalem. Papers stuffed into a crack in the Western (Wailing) Wall, Old City of Jerusalem. Papers stuffed into a crack in the Western (Wailing) Wall, Old City of Jerusalem. Western (Wailing) Wall, Old City of Jerusalem.

Western Wall Tunnel. Women praying at the closest point to the Holy of Holies, Western Wall Tunnel. Ancient waterway, Western Wall Tunnel.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Jesus' crucifixion and resurrection are said to have taken place at the site where this church was built. This church has multiple sections controlled by different Christian churches, including Greek Orthodox, Copitc Orthodox, Ethiopian Orthdox, Roman Catholic, Eastern Orthodox, Armenian Apostolic, and Syriac Orthodox. A ladder has been present on an exterior balcony of the church since the 19th century because it is unclear which of the churches has permission to move it. Interestingly, it is actually a Muslim family that has custodianship of the church, unlocking and locking the premises each day.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Armenian section of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, with a mosaic floor. Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Coptic section, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Crusaders section, Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Ladder that has been in the same spot since the 19th century. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Mural depicting Christ and a skull. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Inside of Christ's tomb. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Outside of Christ's tomb, with crowd waiting to enter. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Dome above Christ's tomb, letting through rays of sunlight. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Ethiopian monastery. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Stone of Unction, believed to be the place where Jesus' body was washed after his death. Church of the Holy Sepulchre, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem.

Markets

Store, Jewish Quarter Street, Jewish Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Hats for sale on small street off of David Street, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Othman Iben Affan mosque, David Street, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Chain Street, Jewish Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Adjacent Jewish and Christian goods for sale, The Muristan, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. David Street, Christian Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Shirt for sale in the souk; it reads, "America don't worry / Israel is behind you." Spice pyramid, Quds Grocery, Souk Khan El-Zeit, Muslim Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem. Bras on display, Souk Khan El-Zeit, Muslim Quarter, Old City of Jerusalem.

Tel Aviv

This city couldn't be more different from Jerusalem. It's modern and largely secular, with great nightlife and beaches. Tel Aviv is known as the "White City" because of the abundance of Bauhaus and International style buildings.

Building, Rothschild Boulevard. Sculptures of singers on balcony, Evergreen building, Rothschild Boulevard. Building, Rothschild Boulevard. Mannequin, corner of Shabazi Street and Rabbi Yehuda Hasid street, Neve Tzedek. Bicyclist, Rothschild Boulevard. Tel Aviv, viewed from Old Jaffa. Hassan Bek Mosque. Caf?ia, Shabazi Street, Neve Tzedek. Sigal, Shabazi Street, Neve Tzedek. Bicyclist and caf?Rothschild Boulevard.

Old Jaffa

Just outside of Tel Aviv is the old port city of Jaffa, inhabited since 7500 BC. Its narrow alleyways are neatly restored and now house many artisans' shops.

Clock tower, Old Jaffa. Door, clock tower, Old Jaffa. Tree growing from a concrete seed, Artists' Quarter, Old Jaffa. Artists' Quarter, Old Jaffa. Man fishing, with Tel Aviv behind him. Street sign, Simtat Mazal Gdi. Waterfront, Old Jaffa.

Masada

On a high plateau overlooking the desert and the Dead Sea lies the Judean fortress of Masada. Remains of palaces, thermal baths, a Byzantine church, and other structures can be seen today.

Hanging Palace of Herod, lower terrace, desert fortress of Masada. View of the desert and dead sea through a hole in the South Gate, desert fortress of Masada. Cable car, desert fortress of Masada. Byzantine Church, desert fortress of Masada. View of the desert and mountains, desert fortress of Masada. Byzantine church, desert fortress of Masada. Remnants of a painted wall, commandant's headquarters, desert fortress of Masada. Northern Palace, desert fortress of Masada. South Gate, desert fortress of Masada. Looking down on a mosaic floor, Western Palace, desert fortress of Masada.

Akko

Akko, also known as Acre, is one of Israel's oldest cities, inhabited for thousands of years by many different groups people. Highlights: visiting the beautiful Al-Jazzar Mosque, walking the narrow streets, and enjoying scrumptious pomegranate juice and hummus. Lowlight: sitting through the long, horrible A/V presentation at the Turkish Baths (you are physically prevented from going at your own pace; that's the only way to see the baths).

Man making pomegranate juice, old town Akko. Street with arches, old town Akko. Market, old town Akko. Cheezy display (among many cheezy displays) in Hamam al Basha (the Turkish Bath), old town Akko. Agitated horse in a courtyard, old town Akko. Khan al-Umdan, a roadside inn (khan) built in 1784, old town Akko. Templar Crusader Tunnel, a tunnel used by the Knights Templar, connecting a Templar palace to the port. Old town Akko. Manhole cover, old town Akko.

Akko Citadel

This is an Ottoman fortification built between the 12th and 19th centuries, later used as a prison.

Balls, Akko Citadel, old town Akko. Knight's Halls, Akko Citadel, old town Akko. Wall and palm trees, Akko Citadel, old town Akko.

Al-Jazzar Mosque

This beautiful 18th century mosque is the first one I've been to where secular visitors with cameras are welcomed. It was truly wonderful, the highlight of my visit to Akko.

Woman entering Al-Jazzar Mosque. Old town Akko. Foot washing area, Al-Jazzar Mosque. Old town Akko. Wall pattern, Al-Jazzar Mosque. Old town Akko. Al-Jazzar Mosque, built in 1781. Old town Akko. Courtyard, Al-Jazzar Mosque, built in 1781. Old town Akko. Al-Jazzar Mosque. Old town Akko. Azan clock, Al-Jazzar Mosque. Old town Akko.




More photos: View all photos in the directory /photos/israel/.
Eve Andersson (eve@eveandersson.com)
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